Voyage to Antarctica

I realize this post is very much after the fact of my trip to Antarctica with Ocean Expeditions (8 yrs ago). I have also done many travels afterwards but it has had such a memorable impact as my final continent and this is the anniversary month of the adventure. In effort to keep in line with my thoughts at the time of travel, below are excerpts taken straight from my travel journaling at the time of the trip. Here we go:

I am on my way to Antarctica, the last continent to visit before reaching the goal of traveling to all seven.

I am really excited! This has been a dream in the making for nearly a decade. In preparation for the trip, my good friend offered that I could borrow some really good winter parka gear for the trip. I am so thankful for that…I know it will come in handy. I’ll be flying by way of Chile and Buenos Aries, Argentina before reaching the last leg of the beginning of my adventure to Antarctica: Ushuaia, Argentina.

The flight from Buenos Aries to the southern tip of South America was an experience. It was a small propeller plane that traveled along the eastern coast of the continent. I sat at the window seat at the very back of the plane on the right side. The view was amazing. As we neared the airport of Ushuaia, the plane had to navigate through a mountainous area. They were beautiful mountains that were full of dark green forestry but were covered at the tops with snow. I just knew it would be cold from that alone.

The turbulence was very shaky. There was a sweet elderly lady sitting to the left of me across the aisle who was so fearful of flying. The stewardess and people around did all they could to assure her that everything was okay. The wind was strong. I was looking forward to landing. I arrived in Ushuaia just a couple of days before the big ocean excursion.

25 December

Christmas was a very laid-back day. I started off by venturing down to one of the main streets just to simply see what was open. As I left the hotel, I ran into this stray dog that insisted on following me. I am talking any store I ducked into, it would sit and wait patiently outside the door. As I would make my way back to the street, stray would tag along. A very sweet dog, it seems it must have had training or an owner in the past.

As a treat I thought I’d grab stray some Christmas lunch. I grabbed some chicken breasts from one of the local stores, shredded it and gave it to the sweet dog to then find as soon as stray had food, off it went. It was quite funny because later in the day I saw stray tag along to a couple who was all smiles and also humored the pup who seemed to be looking for dinner…

So anyway, I then continue a walk toward the pier just for picture taking. It’s pretty cold out but good thing I brought my head warmer this time...yesterday my ears learned a lesson. Being Christmas, a lot of tours weren’t running and looking into the next couple of days was just as challenging as the companies here prefer at least two persons to sign up to tour. Tomorrow I am hoping to just tag along at the bus station and hope more than just me shows up...that’s what was explained to be the common thing to do.

I stopped at a nice restaurant for lunch. It got my attention with the still slowly smoking pork in the front window...although good, way too much food (it is all meat). Afterwards I decided to walk off the meal and found Ushuaia train tour to leave shortly after. The driver stopped me in the street to see if I would be interested. I figured why not as I had nothing planned. It was not an actual train on tracks. This one had wheels and drove on regular roads (I suppose more of a road train). The history on this whole train thing is that Ushuaia is known for their prison hints their popular prison museum. Way back when the trains were used to transport prisoners. That is the main gist. Tour wasn’t much, as the city is not big. It primarily serves as a ship port (most will take tours out natures way away from the city). The tour took about an hour or so but I met some really nice people. I met folks born in Germany, raised Buenos Aires which was a history lesson in itself. But really there were people from a variety of different backgrounds living there.

26 December - New Day New People…

I began my day with breakfast at the hotel. I decided to head toward the pier for a light walk before attempting the train station to go touring. That is where I met an elder Canadian. He saw me taking pictures with my camera and asked if I could help take his picture since he wasn’t too familiar with using his new phone. He is an older gentlemen, definitely grandpa type maybe 60-70s... After a little chats, I realized the journey this guy has been on and found it pretty inspirational. Two months ago on 25 October, he set out on this journey from Canada down to the southern city Ushuaia by himself in his camper van— a decision he made to accomplish as he was getting older.

He shared experiences from driving through various states, making it to Texas and crossing its border into Mexico, running into car troubles and the many kind people who helped him along the way — being encouraged and coached to continue the journey after almost calling it quits several times. I asked of all the places where did he find he enjoyed the most and he told me Colombia.

Two months to the date of the start of his travels, my new Canadian acquaintance made it here to Ushuaia: La ciudad se dice el fin del mundo. We talked for nearly an hour, sharing all sorts of travel stories which was nice. Elders are the greatest story tellers. He retired from GM motors awhile back and was also an avid bird watcher who had been licensed to tag all sorts of birds around the world with one being the penguins here in Argentina.

We then walked down to the place to get passports stamped. He then went into papa mode on making sure it was understood how to get to stations if I decided to go exploring and the safe travels bit. We wished each other the best and parted ways. Good times holding hour long convo with a complete stranger. At this point being around the time I should head to the station, I ended up deciding on taking a cozy day indoors. So I’m now at Tanta Sara Patagonia Sur eating a nice Carmel chocolate filled pancake with lavender tea. After that, guess who’s lounging in her room for the day?

27 December - Gym Day/Hiking

Today I decided to be brave and take a taxi to the start of the trail for Lago Esmeralda outside of town. So, I go to the cab stand, ask the distance and all that good stuff. I then take a ride and am dropped off to what appears to be some random trail off the side of the road. At first I was nervous because the first portion of the trail I saw no one and was surrounded by wooded areas. But once I saw others on the trail when the trail opened up to these nice fields, everything was alright. The hike was beautiful, and I remembered to bring my tripod for pictures. Some folks from Malta offered to take my photo as well.

The lake was a beauty with that turquoise color. Someone that was camping at the lake brought what appeared to be a puppy retriever (still big but hadn’t grown into its paws yet). It saw me and just ran up to me like it knew me, insisted I pet it, wanted to play chase and the whole bit, followed me a ways and then went off to greet the next group. It was about a two-hour hike out (total four hour hike). I stopped for lunch at the cafeteria which was quite good. The cab guy told me he would be back to get me at 2pm and he was right on time and so was I. In the process, I met two Aussie ladies who happened to need a ride back into town as well and so we shared a cab. Turns out the two will be on the Antarctica cruise with me so that is nice to have met faces that will be familiar when I go on the trip tomorrow. Back into town, I just stopped in to Andino for a takeaway cappuccino and headed back to the hotel.

28 December - It’s amazing the people you run into

I went down to the dock because I noticed the ship pulled in and wanted to get a closer look. An Argentinian couple traveling from the north came up to me as I walked aimlessly taking pictures and we just started chatting. The start of the convo was where are you from and just went from there. We got to chatting about a variety of things from sports, family, travel, cultural differences and languages, etc. They drove down to visit family, a 5-day trek. As a part of their travel they purposely look to meet new people just because. I learned a lot from them and had opportunity to use Spanish which they very much encouraged. This Christian couple was such an encouragement in general which was very much needed at the time. Genuine friendliness, they both gave me hugs/besos and then continued their morning walk. We stood talking nearly half an hour but seemed much longer.

**Embarkment day!!**

Great start to the evening thus far. I had an amazing dinner to start off the journey. I’ve met some wonderful people from all over. All in all great conversations, and entertaining card game adventures...it’s nearly midnight, sun set not long ago and we are officially in drakes passage.

29 December - Day One at Sea

I went to sleep with calm waters and was in and out of sleep with the rocking of the ship. This morning I was in the worse way with feeling nausea. Definitely not made for a Navy. Today was full of briefings for upcoming shore excursions. You have to attend if you are going to take part in excursions when we arrive to the continent so I had to muster up the energy to make it to the lounge for the briefings.

One cool event of the day: we spotted fin whales alongside the ship. Soon as I heard whales were spotted, I went outside with totally inappropriate winter gear, but feeling of sickness momentarily vanished. We still have one more day at sea after today and I hope waters calm down a bit.

30 December

I slept so good yesterday. Right after dinner which was at 7pm, I went to bed and woke up not long ago just after 0500. I have so much more respect for those crab boats and stuff working in rough waters.

I went up to the bridge where the captain is and got the run-down of how they are operating the ship. I also saw my first baby berg. There should be more to see within the next 10 NM or so according to navigation. For the most part, it is autopilot until we get closer to the ice and then it is manual steering. It is very foggy out right now.

Today we had to vacuum our clothes to remove any seeds, dirt, etc. They have strict procedures for not contaminating the land once we arrive. I also got my muck boots issued to take on the zodiacs to whatever excursions. We should hit land between 8-9am tomorrow.

And then…

Penguins!! There I was sitting for dinner, and around 745pm the lady from Denver who invited me to sit near her at the window shouts, “look berg and penguins!” I was in the perfect seat, looked right outside the window and there were about a dozen penguins sitting on an iceberg that had a water slide on it and also swimming near the ship. I didn’t have time to prep my camera so didn’t get a picture but such a sweet site. That was such a special moment. I’ll never forget that… my first experience heading to the Antarctic!

Fast forward —after dinner— the captain spotted some humpback whales feeding!!! This was around 9-930pm or so; then not far from there, there were a colony of penguins on another iceberg. We haven’t even made it to the continent yet and already amazed at everything. The whales are an absolute highlight for me. My UK roomie and I are going to wake up extra early in the morning... Rumor has it by captain it will be a site to see...

31 December- We Made It!

We pulled into Antarctica (Cuverville Island) this morning about 8am...amazingly beautiful! This morning, I went out on one of the zodiac boats for a photo journey taking pictures of the Gentoo penguins. They are so cute and curious. The animals here have no fear of humans be it there are no real land predators for them. The weather is actually not even that cold. The water is like a mirror...just stunning.

We are now on our way to Danco island for some snowshoeing. Today was just gorgeous! Took the zodiac out for snowshoeing after buffet lunch. It was about a two-hour hike there and back. Once at the top, I could hear the sounds of snow or glaciers crashing. Couldn’t see them but definitely heard them...sounds just like roaring thunder but much more intense and intimidating. I also had an opportunity to watch the penguins on their version of highway/walk paths...so cute. It was important for us to allow them to stay on their routes and not interrupt when crossing because if they startle and do not climb up the hills/mountain, the gentoo’s rookery (essentially a penguin rock space that is like a playpen or crib-like space for the babies) don’t eat. They are such curious creatures though.

Half the ship after decided to do a polar plunge. I chose not to partake. Tonight is New Year’s Eve. The ship is hosting a BBQ for the occasion on the back deck which is nice. I’ll try and stay up till midnight but I am exhausted!

1 January

For New Years, I was at Neko harbor —officially on the Antarctica continent. At last minute I decided to do mountaineering on one of the largest glaciers known. Quite intimidating especially as you hear and see avalanches of snow crashing down to the water just on the other side of glacier you are standing on. We were roped to five others and the guide as we made the climb, ice picks in hand. Twice one guy fell half body into the snow because we were passing through a fault on the glacier. There were these gaps or crevices in the ice...at one point one of my legs went down too. Hard to get everyone on the same page of when to stop and go.

This afternoon started with kayaking in Neko Harbor right off the shore of the continent. The water is still like glass: very smooth. It was nice traveling through ice. My roommate and I partnered up for kayaking and managed to steer ourselves into icebergs. I had an opportunity to see a huge spotted leopard seal. It was huge! Of course pictures were desired, so we managed to bump the berg it was laying on...certainly not on purpose. I am talking we were really up and personal with this seal. And I was in the front of the kayak. I kept warning I am just not all that comfortable with being this close to a wild animal especially as I watched it eyeball me moving around its area but apparently they are the most curious of humans here.

There were also a lot of Avalanche noises surrounding the harbor as well. No surprise there as it has become a normal sound now. There was also a minke whale swimming around while we were kayaking. I hear it several times as it came up for air but didn’t see it when I was in the kayak. I did see the whale from the ship only after deciding to call kayaking quits for a break.

2 January

The winds have picked up since yesterday causing choppy waters and also makes for more cold. I was able to use the polar jacket and hat with no extra layers, it was really nice ...quite cozy. We had a change of course due to the winds. We stopped near a Chilean research center however we were not able to visit as they are renovating the place. This was another opportunity to spot, you guessed it: Gentoo penguins! I was fortunate enough to have done all excursions at this point of the trip and am quite comfortable just relaxing for the remaining. Kayaking was cancelled today for others. Tonight I am scheduled to camp on ice. I am hoping the wind dies down but the guides say we are now experiencing true Antarctica unlike the sun/cloud skies with only hints of rain. We are currently cruising to our next destination —Port Lockroy— where there is a museum, old British research center, a post office, and plenty of penguins.

I decided to send postcards to myself, mom and dad. The museum was interesting with still old food tin cans from the 60s... surely they don’t eat that. The site relies on ships cruising by to provide water (they have no running water), fresh fruit and veggies versus the canned food supply they receive once for the season, warm meal, etc. They do four- month stints at Lockroy as researchers of penguin behavior and breeding patterns with and without influence of human interaction. And of course other studies. They had a lot of historical radio communication equipment there which was quite neat.

Just outside of the building, it was funny to watch the behavior of penguins as they built rock nests for their young and the mommies protected eggs and their baby chicks. Many of them were nesting so the opportunity to get up close and personal just didn’t work out. For the longest I watched this penguin steal rocks from a neighboring penguin’s ‘home’ in effort to provide for his partner. She was clearly not happy but limited to what she could do as she was protecting her baby and whatnot.

Looks there is no camping tonight. With 40 NM winds, the guides had to make the decision to cancel tonight’s camp and hope to squeeze us in for tomorrow. As a treat, the captain and staff decided we can head south through Lemoire channel which is scenic and rarely recommended for different ships because of the ice glaciers. Our Captain has 20+ years’ experience and seems it was exciting for him to dodge glaciers through the channel which is growing narrow. I do not think it possible to be able to turn around now that we have made the decision to go through.

It’s raining now as well. Looks like captain is a pro at maneuvering this ship. He dodged glaciers like it was no big deal. It was a beautiful route.

I stayed up playing cards with some of the passengers until about midnight when I called it quits.

3 January - A Day of Reflection

This morning started out with a nice breakfast followed by a zodiac cruise around the coast where I saw chin strap penguins...just as cute as the Gentoo. They were diving into the water and also diving out of the water. We then cruised along surrounded by chunks of ice and glaciers. Being next to the glaciers was a very surreal moment. It put things into perspective on a grander scheme. We then came back to the ship as it was windy/ raining/snow/sleet and the high tide was causing the glaciers to move at a quick pace, almost locking the mountaineers on shore with no way to head back to the boat.

The remainder of the day has been spent whale watching. It is not safe to go back on land at the moment so we are just cruising along. There were humpback whales breaching: amazing! Our guide was explaining how the captain is just really enjoying the spontaneous-ness of what is next and how the weather is turning. I just picture him humming and singing songs while making random decisions of where to go next. My camera does no justice to the picturesque views.

I decided to then just go to a higher deck on the ship and just watch and take it in. I was by myself on the deck blowing crazy wind and sleet. So many thoughts of so many things... I was in my own little world for most of the day even when out and about. I’ve always had goals (whether or not I meet them is another story) but it hasn’t really been understood by others the joy I get from such experiences and explorations. To be able to succeed in this regardless of situation and circumstances is nice. Whale watching was so high on my list and I got to see so many humpback whales, the mama with her baby, just following near the ship. No orcas thus far but that’s ok as I learned it’s not really the season for them so maybe another time. I’ve met some similar minded individuals on this trip as it relates to travel and such which is nice too.

4 January - Last Day

Last day in Antarctica… what an experience. Camping was officially canceled due to high winds of 40NM and so that is the only thing I didn’t experience. But the staff more than made up for it by allowing us to visit places that were not initially on the itinerary.

The last place we visited was Deception Island, a place I actually wanted to visit coming to Antarctica in the first place. We sailed through the caldera and had opportunity to do a short hike. On the way back toward the ship, there were three Weddell seals sunbathing on the ice. One was a baby. Then the cutest chin strap penguins were just as curious as could be walking along the black sand beach. They were pretty close, would go into the water and come out in the same spot almost like they were playing with us.

There was another polar plunge at the location to send us off. We are officially in route back to Ushuaia and should be in drakes passage soon if not already.

Going on a road trip? Let’s prepare